Like I mentioned in my last post, I got married!!! However, because of this stupid capitalist system that prioritizes worker productivity over well-being, we didn't have enough leaves saved up to go on a long enough vacation. So, we did something kinda crazy... And quit both our jobs at the same time.
I know, I know, it's such a stupid decision to both quit at the same time. But really, if we hadn't done it, when would we ever have had the time to just go travel and enjoy our lives?! I had already consumed all my vacation leaves by going on my wedding and then our hometown reception, and Rap's work as an infirmary doctor did not allow him to take more than a couple days off at a time.
So, we quit. And, using some of the money we got as gifts from our wedding, we were able to spend 12 amazing days in Japan. Here's what we did.
Day 0
- Flight to Tokyo
- Check-in at Shibuya
- Do side quests
- Dinner with Tita Baby and Tito Mak
Our Tokyo trip was off to a bumpy takeoff when we arrived in NAIA Terminal 3. First, the line for the baggage drop-off was extremely long, and we stood in line for about an hour. Once that was out of the way, I was then questioned by the immigration officer, who somehow knew I used to work for the DOH, and asked for a copy of my resignation letter! (For context, government workers in the Philippines typically require government clearance to go abroad). I resigned over a month ago and it did not cross my mind at all to bring a resignation letter to the airport. Fortunately, I just happened to have a photo of the letter on my phone (thank you, past self, for having the foresight!). After a few more questions, the officer let me go. Finally, as Rap and I were walking towards our departure gate (as stated on our boarding passes), a PA announcement said that the boarding would be in a totally different gate, in the opposite side of the airport. We sprinted to make it the correct gate as the Final Call announcement blared over the speakers, mentioning my name, Rap's, and a few other passengers.
My incredulous face ranting to Rap about how we totally could have missed our flight over the dumbest reasons.
Anyway, a few hours later, and we finally landed in Tokyo!!! The stress of the journey was instantly erased by Psyduck's happy face greeting me
konnichiwa!
But once we'd arrived, the stress was not over. Because I had crammed most of the planning for this trip, securing accommodations and passes just a day or two before our flight, some essentials were no longer available on the day I needed them, like the extremely precious pocket Wi-Fi. I wanted to spend more time scouring the Narita airport looking for rental wi-fi there, but I had pre-arranged for a private transfer to our accommodation (which was free, thanks to Booking.com!) and we couldn't keep our driver waiting. So we relegated the wi-fi and train pass arrangements to side quests once we arrived in the city proper.
We met up with our driver and enjoyed a peaceful, hour-long drive to our accommodation in Shibuya.
Posing outside our cute little apartment, FIKA SHIBUYA HONMACHI. Also, when we arrived the weather was still pleasant enough that I could wear a sleeveless top with no thermals.
Prior to this trip I'd believed myself to be a "heat-stable" kind of person (i.e. hindi lamigin). I genuinely believed the cold never bothered me anyway, so I'd brought along the LEAST WARM HeatTech clothes and even packed some sleeveless tops. Yeah, this decision would (frost)bite me in the ass soon enough.
Even though it was a last-minute booking, I think we still landed a sweet deal with this place.
It came complete with heating, a plush bed, and everything you could need.
Because we had booked accommodations pretty late, we ended up booking an AirBnB that was tucked deep into a residential area in Shibuya. The nearest train station was a 15-minute walk, but it was a pleasant way to immerse ourselves in the life of a Tokyo native. After checking in, we headed out to complete some side quests: getting pocket wi-fi, getting an IC card, and eating snacks.
It was my first time experiencing this kind of cold weather, and my first impression was that it felt like what being in an airconditioned room set at 24 degrees feels like. It was also very disorienting for me that the inside of buildings was warmer than the outside. If you wanted to feel colder, you would leave the door open. In the Philippines, you would get yelled at for doing that kasi "lalabas ang aircon!"
First: On the way to get pocket wi-fi, we stumbled upon Shin-Okubo, Tokyo's Koreatown, and I HAD to get this honey, cheese, and bean-flavored pancake. Heavenly!
We got our pocket-wifi from the Ninja Wi-Fi main office in Shinjuku, and it ended up being cheaper than the wi-fi rentals you get at Narita Airport.
Our second side quest was getting an IC card, which functions like the Philippines' BEEP card. You can use it to tap in and tap out at any train station without purchasing paper tickets, and it also acts like a digital wallet that you can use in most stores. We got ours by speaking to a very nice and friendly Japanese tourist assistant at a nearby train station. She took us to the station office, where we had to fill out some forms and pay a deposit of ¥500 (you can get it back by returning your card). There are many companies that offer their own variation of the IC card - there's PASMO, Suica, ICOCA, and others. There's virtually no difference between these kinds. The station we were at happened to only offer PASMO.
The whole process of getting a card took around 10 minutes, but it apparently used to be much faster. The guide explained that these cards used to be readily available in vending machines, but because of a semiconductor shortage brought about by war, were now being rationed.
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We arrived around the start of winter, and vending machines were selling these life-giving hot drinks and even canned soup. |
Above: Gummy bear-shaped cold drinks, best paired with an adorable bunny macaron.
Taking in the urban chaos next to Shibuya station.
For dinner, we met up with Rap's aunt and uncle from Japan, who treated us to a unique buffet-style restaurant in Shibuya called CHURRASCO GANG. Waiters would go from table to table, slicing off freshly-grilled meats, fruits, and vegetables. My favorite was this grilled pineapple - so sweet and warm! There was also unlimited salad, drinks, and desserts. Loved it! Thank you, Tita Baby and Tito Mak!
The commute back to our apartment meant walking through lively streets lined with small shops, followed by eerie silence as we entered the residential area.
Ending the day with these quiet pictures in our quiet neighborhood.
Day 1
- Stroll through Yoyogi Park and Meiji Jingu Shrine
- Explore Harajuku
- Pompompurin Cafe
- Dinner with Satorou from the Japan Railway Union
In the morning, we had a quick pictorial around our residential area then grabbed a quick bite of inari sushi at the nearby Lawson100.
Random cafe with an interesting logo near our bus station.
On my first and previous trip to Japan, I'd visited Osaka and Kyoto with my parents. Compared to the shrines in Kyoto, the Meiji Jingu shrine wasn't as remarkable. So we spent most of our time wandering around the inner garden. The foliage was lush in vibrant shades of red, yellow, orange, and green.
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This teahouse behind me, situated in the Meiji Shrine's inner garden, was commissioned by Emperor Meiji for his wife, Empress Shoken.
The inner garden itself also used to be where powerful clans resided during the Edo period. Just walking the vast and beautiful expanse filled me with awe that these dirt paths used to be only accessible to the elite and most powerful in society. Now, the grounds are publicly open for people from all social classes to enjoy.
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Caught this falling leaf mid-air. |
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Barrels of sake at the shrine used for special occasions. Apparently, most of them are empty! |
For lunch, we had kitsune udon and tempura udon at the nearby Forest Cafe. Even though we visited in the morning, the weather was getting colder and colder by the hour, so the warm noodles were a welcome reprieve. Also, we saw crows up close, and I had no idea they were that HUGE!
Japanese food is always so simple but so tasty! Rap also had some sake with his lunch to warm the belly.
We walked to the famed Harajuku area afterwards, known for being the birthplace of a distinct fashion style that's colorful, frilly, over-the-top, and accessorized to the max. It's also known for being a tourist trap.
If I could redo this trip all over again, I definitely would have skipped this part. The streets were unbelievably packed and the overwhelming flow of tourists made it hard to just stop to admire the cute stores. The stores also did sell a lot of Harajuku-themed items like frilly aprons, knee-high chunky boots, and all sorts of hair accessories, but neither Rap nor I were particularly interested. There were also a LOT of animal cafes here, including an otter cafe, but the lines for them were just too long.
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Rap did manage to snag this cool Chicago Bulls cap from a less crowded side street. |
This small stall selling random vegetables in weird poses was really the only other cool thing we found.
I was feeling extremely overwhelmed by this area and wanted to get out of the main street ASAP. When I randomly spotted this Pompompurin Cafe and saw it wasn't too crowded, I basically dove in.
We ordered the "Luxury Tea Set" at ¥2800 (PhP 1,306), which was way overpriced for the quality of food that came with it. It didn't even come with tea! But the presentation was cute, and we did have some fun "playing" with our food.
Party in the front, burn unit in the back.
If you come alone to the cafe, the staff automatically seats you with a big Pom plushie so you don't feel too lonely. I didn't come alone but I asked for one anyway. Because I love him. Because he is a golden retriever/leche flan hybrid with a butthole. Need I say more?!
He also has a pet... hamster? Cat?? Puppy??? And his favorite fruit is mango!
After this kawaii but overpriced merienda, we continued our trek down Harajuku. We found an Asics store, where my cousin Nikki asked us to pick something up for her. The pair she wanted didn't come in her size, but we ended up walking out of their with new pairs for the both of us. Our old shoes were absolutely murdering our feet and we didn't realize just how much until we tried on these new pairs.
I got a classic grey style that can be paired with anything, and Rap went with a slightly more colorful 90's-esque palette. They were so comfy and we ended up wearing only these shoes for the rest of our trip.
We forgot to take a photo, but we also discovered coin lockers in Harajuku where we could store our bags and save our backs while walking around. It was here that the seeds of our love for coin lockers were planted. Despite being a tourist trap, we do have Harajuku to thank for that.
Next, we travelled to Meguro Station to meet up with Satoru, a former train driver for the JR company went on to be a full-time unionist with the Japan Railway Union. He took us to a place called
Shoya, which, he says, is the kind of place where he hangs out with friends after work, enjoying a hearty meal and drinks.
True enough, the menu was entirely in Japanese, and we had to rely entirely on Satoru to order for us. He seemed to know the waiter already and they had some friendly banter before ordering.
Satoru, who works as the Director for International Affairs at the JR Union, certainly understands what dishes would appeal to foreign guests. The star of our meal was this seafood bowl which featured an assortment of crab, shrimp, squid, clam, and veggies in a light broth and chewy udon. Along the way we had the simple but extremely tasty chicken yakitori skewers, and tuna sashimi with ume plum sauce.
The seafood udon was so umay! Delicious! Best partnered with sake!
Over several courses of Asahi beer and sake, Satoru regaled us with tales of his life as a train driver. He talked about how much he loved his old job. Carrying out this essential public service, transporting millions of lives to their destinations safely every day, gave him fulfillment and a sense of purpose. I asked if it was ever lonely, being alone in the driver's carriage all day. He said it was quite the opposite. Train drivers live in a sort of barracks with all the other train workers, and they were like a family. They would all drink, eat, and hang out together after work, much like an actual family. He was never lonely. However, now that he's a union worker and no longer a driver, he said he does miss all the excitement. But being a full-time unionist comes with its own set of challenges.
Like many unions in the Philippines, Japanese unions can also fall prey to union-busting, which is what the management does when they start to perceive unions as too much of a threat to existing power structures. Some common union-busting techniques include bribing union members to quit the union, harassing union members, or lying about shutting down the business altogether. It was shocking to learn that union-busting was a thing even in a country that places high importance on the needs of the community over the needs of the individual.
Final photo with Satoru-san before stumbling back to our apartment haha.
Talking to Satoru was definitely one of the highlights of our Japan trip, and this was just Day 1! I can't wait to share more details about Days 2-10 in the next blogs. Abangan!
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